Shoe and method of making same



Sept. 30. 1924. 1,510,136

J. M. CONNELL ET AL SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 15, 1922 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Invenlofs: JOMM ConneZL, Frankli'. Graves,

Sept. 30 1924. 1,510,136

J. M. CONNELL ET AL SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 15, 1.922 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 "uuuu I IIIIIIIIII Sit Jbim, ComwZL, Frank E. Graves,

Patented Slept. 30, 1924:.

UNITED STATES nane PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN M. GONNELL AND FRANK E. GRAVES, OF BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME.

Application filed August15, 1922.

.To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JOHN M. CONNELL and FRANK E. GRAVES, citizens of the United States of America, and residents of Braintree, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Methods of Making Same, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to shoes and particularly to that class of shoes in which the outsole is sewed directly to the inturned edges of the upper, and has for its object the production of a shoe of this character which may be manufactured without necessitating theturning of the upper.

Another object of the invention is the production by a new method of manufacture of a shoe which will have great flexibility and which may be manufactured at a minimum expense.

The invention consists in turning thev edges of the upper inwardly over the insole and permanently securing said inturned edges to said insole, tacking an outsole to said insole at the toe and heel and then uniting said outsole to said inturned edges of the upper by a row of stitches, which pass through the insole only at the heel portion thereof.

The invention further consists in provid ing the insole with a very narrow shank portion permanently secured only to the inturned edges of the upper and wholly disconnected from the outsole.

The invention further consists in the uniting of the outsole to the inturned edges of the upper by a row of stitches outside of but adjacent to the edge of the forepart of the insole, removed from the edges of the shank of the insole and passing through the heel portion thereof.

The invention further consists in a new method of making a shoe.

The invention further consists in certain novel features of construction and arrangement of parts which will. be readily understood by reference to the description of the drawings and to the claims to he hereinafter given.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, one preferred form thereof is shown in the drawings, this form having been found to give satisfactory and reliable results, al-

Serial No. 581,959.

though it is to be understood that the various instrumentalities of which the invention consists can be variously arranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrumentalities as herein shown and described, except as required by the scope of the appended claims.

Of the drawings:

Figure 1 represents an inverted plane of a last having an inner sole superimposed thereon.

Figure 2 represents an inverted plan of said last and insole with a layer of fibre board superimposed upon the heel portion of the inner sole.

Figure 3 represents an inverted plan of same with the edges of the'upper drawn inwardly over said insole and layer of fibre board and secured thereto by tacks or similar fastening devices.

Figure 4 represents a plan of the outsole to be used, and showing the shank stiffener secured thereto. j

Figure 5 represents an inverted plan of the last, innersole, and upper with the out sole superimposed thereon and secured at the toe and heel to said insole and inturned edges of the upper by a plurality of tacks or similar fastening devices.

Figure 6 represents a transverse section on line 6, 6 on Fig. 3.

Figure 7 represents a transverse section on line 7, 7 on Fig. 5.

Figure 8 represents a horizontal section of the shoe through the upper and showing in plan the inner sole and the row of stitches securing the outsole to the inturned edges of the upper and also to the heel portion of the inner sole.

Figure 9 represents a transverse section on line 9, 9 on Fig. 8, the last being-shown removed to permit the inturned edges of the upper to be secured to the outsole by a row of stitches formed on an ordinary shoe stitcher. I

Figure 10represents a vertical section on line 9, 9 on Fig. 8 showing the channel flaps positioned over the row of stitches, and

Figure 11 represents a transversesection on line 11, 11. on Figs. 5 and 8, showing the counter, inturned edges of upper, layer of material and inner sole, all united to outsole by row of stitches.

upon the metal plate 11 on the bottom of the last 10, an inner sole 19' preferably having a very narrowshank 18, all as indicated inFig. 1 of the drawings.

.The next operation is to position upon the heel. portion of the innersole 1a a layer or" material 1%, preferably of fibre board or soin'esinii-lar stilt material. Then a counter 15 is positioned between the thicknesses of materlal composing the heel portion of the upper 16. i

The. upper 16' with the counter 15 therein is "then placed upon the last and the edges 1'? thereof are drawn over the innersole 12, a l 7 t" l14' -l"' 3 ant lay e1 Oi nia eiia as s iown in i 1. otthe drawings.

F or con'venience, in the drawings, except in Fig. 11, the upper 16 when shown in sectionis shown in one piece, although it 15 to be understood that said upper consists of the usual outer thickness of leather, the innerthickness of leather and a linine. of cloth, all as is the usual practice in the construction o1v shoes.

The edge 17 of the upper 16 having been drawn into position overthe bottom of the last, said edge is secured to the ini'iersole throughout its entire length by a plurality otta'cks or similar fastening devices 18, the points of which are forced against the metal slate lland are upset thereby, clinching he fasteners and permanently securing together the inturned edge .7 of the upper 16 and the innersole 12.

At the rear portion of the last, these tastening devices 18 pass'through the thickness of material 14; and the inturned edge of counter 15.

The outsole 19to be used in the manufacture (it-the shoe is provided with a shank stifie'nerQO secured to the inner face thereof by fastening prongs 21, or in any other well known manner. v

The outer face of the outsole has channel 22 cut therein forming a lip 23 which, in the construction of the shoe, is turned inwardlyas indicated in Figs. 5, 7, and 9 of the drawings. g

IT-l'iis outsole 19 is then superimposed on the inturne'd edge 17 of the upper 16 on tile last10fan'd the heel portion thereof is then "securedto the inner sole 12 and layer of material 14 by a plurality of tacks or other gtastening ideyices 24, while the toe portion thereof is secured tothe nturned edge 17 of the upper 15 and the inhersole 12 bya'plurality of tacks or similar fastening device 25, no tacks or similar fastening devices being used between the heel and toe.

ivy means of these fastening devices 21 and the ontsolc 19 is so secured to the inturned edge 17 ot the upper 16 and the in nor sole 12 that the parts above referred to will be retained in proper position relatively to each other after the last 1.0 has been removed from the upper.

In constructing the shoe the la st 10 is now removed from the upper 16. \Vith the last removed. the shoe can be placed upon the horn of a boot and snoe stitcher, and the le 19 may be united by out the edge of the fore part of the .i and considerably removed from shank portion 13 thereof, as indicated in 8 ()1 the drawings.

'eterably the row of stitches 27 passes at 38 through a part of the heel portion ot the inner ole 12, the layer of material 1&1.

l edge of the counter 15, and the a 1? ot the upper 16 thereby securing t Ether these various parts,

0 stitches seine used at the rear of said heel portion.

This operation of stitching having been completed, the shoe is removed. from the 5 W11 g machine. the lip or flap 23 is turned over into position indicated in Fig. 10 oi" the drmvin covering the row 01 stitches id. lip flap 2 being secured to the part by any suitable adhesive.

The shoe is then again placed upon the last 10 and the outsole is Sllllljfii'i'id to the pressure oi? a beatingg out machine to prop 1 )e the same, the edge is trimmed, and the heel 29 is secured thereto. all in the usual. .panner.

By this method, a shoe may be consti'iictcd similar "0 the turned shoe. without noccssi tating the turning of the upper. This reduces the expense of iiiaiiiii'11(:1.ii1-o the chances oi injuring the shoe he pro ess .1 it manufacture.

makin tlushank portion 1 f" the inner solo very narrow, th e shank of the shoe may he inaie much narrower than by the method 031? nianutacturing shoes.

l liq produces a shoe ua'viuggi'eat flexibilit in its shank portion.

In some cases it may he d red to have the finished shoe tree from tacks and in this case there is no necessity of using :1 last with metal. plate on its bottom, but an ordinary wooden lastcan be used.

Under these conditions the tacks 18 are only driven through the inturned edge of the upper and insole and are not upset or clinched. They are retained therein only long enough to permit a tacky substance inserted between said inturned edges and in sole to set sufficiently to secure said edge permanently to said insole. The tacks 18 may be then removed.

In the same manner two or three tacks 25 may be used to hold the outsole in position upon the inturned edge of the upper during the operation of stitching and when the row of stitches 27 has been completed these tacks 9.5 may be removed.

By this construction a substantially tackless shoe may be manufactured. A shoe constructed by this improved method has great strength, as the row of stitches in the completed shoe is outside of the foot when placed within the shoe and consequently there is no strain upon the stitches as is the case in shoes where the stitches are under the foot.

It is obvious in shoes of the character last mentioned the foot in walking will spread and force the upper outwardly so that there will be a constant pull upon the stitches thus causing them to break.

By having the stitches outside the outline of the foot this objection is wholly over come in the shoe herein shown and described. Moreover owing to the narrow shank portion of the insole and the upper being drawn in and united to the outsole by stitches considerably outside the edge of the shank portion of the insole, there is at this point absolutely no strain either upon the stitches or the upper and the shoe thus constructed is made very flexible and exceedingly strong.

It is believed that the method of manufacture of shoe, and the many advantages of the shoe when manufactured by this method will be fully understood from the foregoing description.

Having thus described our invention we claim:

1. The method of making shoes which consists in placing upon a last an insole having a very narrow shank portion; drawing the edges of the upper over said insole and permanently securing said. edges to said insole; positioning an outsole on the inturned edges of the upper and tacking said outsole to said edges and insole at the toe and heel only, said outsole extending at the shank beyond the narrow shank portion of the insole, a distance greatly in excess of that which said outsole extends beyond said edge at the forepart and heel portion; then removing said last; and finally uniting said edges of the upper to said outsole by a row of stitches.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in placing upon a last an insole having a very narrow shank portion; draw ing the edges of the upper over said insole and permanently securing said edges to said insole; positioning an outsole on the inturned edges of the upper and tacking said outsole to said edges and insole at the toe and heel only; then removing said last; and finally uniting said edges of the upper to said outsole by a row of stitches said row of stitches followin the edge of the fore part of the insole, being separated a considerable distance from the shank portion thereot andpassing through portions of the heel part of the insole and terminating at points opposite the center of said heel part.

3. The method of making shoes which consists in. placing an insole upon a last; placing a thickness of material on the heel part; then positioning an upper thereon with a counter between the outer and inner thicknesses of the heel part thereof; drawing the edges of the upper over said insole and permanently securing said edges thereto; tacking to said insole at the toe and heel only an outsole; removing the last; and then securing said edges to said outsole by a row of stitches which follow the edge of the forepart oi: the insole but lie outside of each edge and the edge of the shank and pass through the front part only of the heel portion of the insole the counter, and the thickness of material beneath said counter.

l. A. shoe having the edges 01"- its upper inturned and permanently secured tothe insole by a tacky substance and an outsole secured to said inturned edges of the upper by a row of stitches, outside of and adjacent to the edge of the fore part of said insole and considerably outside of the shank portion thereof.

A shoe having the edges of its upper inturned and permanently secured to an insole, having a narrow shank portion, and an outsole secured to said int-urned edges of the upper by a row ot stitches outside of and adjacent to the edge of the forepart' of the insole said row of stitches being considerably outside of the edges of said shank portion and extending through the heel portion of the insole thereby uniting said heel portion to said out-sole.

Signed by us at Braintree. li lass this 10th day of August. 1922.

JOHN M. CONNELL. FRANK E. GRAVES. "Witnesses JOHN B. Cnown,

ABBIE L. MIGVAV 

